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John Cardwell(www.crete-unique.com)
  • memphis, tn
  • United States
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How wide is this top going to be? It really shouldnt be too hard to manage in 2 sections. I would also say that putting in a bar top is a fairly easy install compared to say a top with integral sinks going between two walls. Surely you could offer a…
May 24
Also I don't think your test was overly accurate since all pieces were in different parts of the table. Each would get different amounts of air flow. I have used the sra tom sells and have noted a difference with it compared to without it. Several p…
May 22
Charge a fee for your design work/time if they use you thats part of the price. If not they owe you for your design time.
May 12
Buy color starter set and make samples. Carefully weigh and measure all ingredients for each sample. Use varying amounts of pigment from really small percentages on up. Use white and grey cement. Find what you like. Rinse repeat. Mainly a time inves…
May 11
Look at your website objectively as you were a customer. How would you want it to work/flow. What would you want to see. Obviously you are biased when it comes to the work you have already done so you may hold it in higher regard than someone else w…
May 11
How thick do you feel comfortable pouring it is the question.
May 5
April 30
go to fiberopticproducts.com and check out their stuff. They have a slight tutorial type thing on there. 1.5 is probably a little thick for my preference. The thicker they are the harder they are to bend and keep them down in the material. It takes…
April 29

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John Cardwell

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At 10:48am on February 6, 2010, zach adams said…
Hi John
Thanks for "The Shift" (ducktape) in the conversation "Just for fun" I had made a coment on
I got carried away. Guess my wife hadnt "kissed" me in a while at that point. hehe
At 7:14pm on January 18, 2010, Mandala Design said…
We just picked up a drain from Lowes or somewhere to fashion our knockout. The integrated overflow was a 'Mcyvered' deal
At 9:29pm on December 11, 2009, Alla Linetsky said…
John, thanks for letting me know. I wrote the guy a rather nasty email, and he called me this morning, far more polite than my email to him warranted. He promised to take down my photos, but I don't think he'll take down all the stolen photos on his website. Some people are just clueless.

I doubt you have anything to fear from this guy, but you might want to put something on your website about all your photos being of your own work.
At 12:21pm on February 4, 2009, Patina Concrete said…
maybe can't remember let me know what you wanted to ask either way. you do some nice work!
At 3:13pm on January 27, 2009, Jimmy Archambault said…
beautiful wet cast
At 2:52pm on January 27, 2009, Jimmy Archambault said…
are most of your pictures gfrc
At 11:40am on January 5, 2009, Rich Holschuh said…
In the average width ramp (12-13"), I will use usually five shims, ripped to uniform width and length.
At 10:42am on January 5, 2009, Rich Holschuh said…
I build my ramps from scratch each time - maybe some day I will get a master urethane form built, but for now they are all unique - widths and lengths change depending on the sink and the space...
Pretty simple method: I build up the pitch with simple wooden shims, sized identically - fastened into the top form with double-sided tape. Then a shaped sheet of thin (-1/8") acrylic (plexiglass) with radiused corners, also taped to the shims. This gives the finished water-shedding plane.
Slots are wooden molding sections, either half-round or screen stop, polyurethaned for sealing, and siliconed on to the acrylic as needed. Then the entire perimeter is very carefully caulked to ease and seal all edges... sometimes takes 2-3 passes to get it just-so.
Hope this is clear! I have pics somewhere of the process... finding them is the hard part.
At 2:39pm on November 26, 2008, Mandala Design said…
How did your template go?
At 4:42pm on November 19, 2008, Mandala Design said…
Feel free to give me a call in the next hour, and we can chat it out.
828.776.0213
 
 
 

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