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I'm using the old Buddy Rhodes wax puck.
16 hours ago
You must be using the wrong wax. I bought some water-based stuff from Tom Fischer, and it's a breeze to apply. Damp sponge or scrubby to spread on the surface, then dry towel or scrubby to buff it to a high shine. And it does blend in the scratches,…
17 hours ago
Interesting idea with the wax Alla. I've never tried this but will give it a shot on some test pieces in my shop. Is the wax solution more for sealing up the gap and stain protection or will this blend the scratch in visually as well? I've got some…
18 hours ago
Corey: The guys at Surface519 say it takes about 30 days to gain 100% strength. Bob explains it to be like fish net stockings. When you apply the EAP it is like a stretched fish net. Over time the holes get small and tighter. ( matrix). But everyone…
20 hours ago
You can also use eclipse floor or SRA 101 from Fishstone. Tom will hook you up.
yesterday
I don't want to have to wax the whole top. And I can see me starting with the scratch, then trying to buff it out and ending up with a small waxy spot. Do I just try to micro fill the scratch or work the whole area? I waxed a sink once!! and didn't…
yesterday
I tried doing that and ended up with a mess. Why not just wax the scratches, if they're small enough and not completely through the sealer?
yesterday
John added a discussion
What are people doing for small touch up on EAP? There are a few minor scratches in a new top I installed last week. I plan to leave it until they are all settled in before making some repairs. I was hoping a wipe with a 50/50 EAP boost with a cloth…
yesterday

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At 3:46pm on February 9, 2010, CounterKulture said…
We buy our glass from our local plant which is cheap... but I would like to have it separated into different colors. I would prefer to wash the bottles before crushing as it is really hard to wash the glass sand and get it to dry out.
At 5:03pm on September 23, 2009, Jeff Osborne said…
Hey bro, to tell the truth this was a prototype for a tile store. I first wanted to see how well my mold would release and all that stuff. My future cast will have built in flange or what ever it takes for the particular job. in the pic it' s sealed with gloss eap and looked kick ass until i rolled anti-skid eap on shower floor. I must have applied to thick because it looks like shit. All milky, should have tested that theory first. ended up having to wet polish with fucking 50 grit to get that shit off, it's bomb proof with the anti-skid additive in it. looks pretty fucked now. going to paste over entire floor tomorrow and see what that looks like. sorry for rambling, later.
At 10:31pm on September 17, 2009, Ryan Waxman said…
On my silicone molds, smooth on one step release. On mdf sink plugs i coat with fiber glass resin, and then also smooth-on one step. Release agent help but its not totally necessary. Melamine needs no release agent, It wont bond to anything plastic or polished stainless steel. IT will bond to wood and metal, so those need to be coated. If you use wood rails for countertop forms tape them off with stucco tape, the smooth red plastic tape.
At 7:38pm on September 17, 2009, Ryan Waxman said…
I am in Durango, Colorado. I have a flat rate shipping on the samples if you buy through the web site.

You can email me your shipping address and tell me what you want and i can customize an invoice for you. stonevesselsink@gmail.com Also i can get really good rates on freight so if the order is large enough i can look into this. I am shipping 700 lbs across the country right now for about $250.
At 5:36pm on September 17, 2009, Ryan Waxman said…
I am letting folks know I have a small web site set up to sell samples of ceramic cement, calling it Bombercrete. For large orders you can just call me and i can arrange however much you need. I am suggesting people start with the Premix, I am selling it pretty cheap and its the easiest to work with.

www.bombercrete.com
At 8:29am on August 12, 2009, Mandala Design said…
regarding your question, get to know the baby jesus and that may improve your chances. I am still trying to figure the shit out myself.
At 4:52pm on July 28, 2009, Ryan Waxman said…
Everything i know about it i learned from bob and mark, they seamed to be more helpful then kinloch. I think it needs to be heated in microwave or cut with MEK. ITs definitely challenging at first. Ph. 970-385-4044.

I am still at two coats most of the time. I lay a 5-6 mils down, sand with 100 micron, then lay a thin coat 1 mil, then a 15 micron to buff off any dust bunnys.
At 10:36am on July 28, 2009, Mark Celebuski said…
John,

I'd be glad to share the learning curve of the UV sealer.

717-823-7408

Mark
At 9:53am on February 20, 2009, Steve Valdez said…
Hey John,
No..1 pour, check it out close up
At 1:00am on February 20, 2009, Steve Valdez said…
Thanks John
You some nice stuff too..
 
 
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