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Henry Fehr
  • 31, Male
  • Winkler,MB
  • Canada
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That looks really good. How did you get the lines in their?
12 hours ago
Has anyone tried Puckboard? I use the 1/4'' all the time for round corners on stamped concrete. As far as countertops go I have only used melamine.
on Sunday
November 18
November 12
That looks great. How did you blend the colors?
November 12
I really like the color. How did you do it?
November 11
November 2
November 2

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Henry Fehr

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Henry Fehr

Fibre optic sample

I seen so many fibre opic counters in the last year I had to try it. I made a 16'' x 20'' sample. I used and old fibre optic light that my wife got for chritmas years ago. It was a pain to get the fibres into the holes without twisting the all up. I used a scc mix in a brown color. I was very happy with the results. I want to make a coffee table for the office, but I want to go with the stamp look. Has anyone ever tryed doing fibres with stamping? I hope to get pictures by the end of the week.

Posted on August 24, 2008 at 3:00pm — 3 Comments

Henry Fehr

Concrete Sign

I started working on a concrete sign that I want to setup in front of my shop. I'm making it 3D, the letters and the borders will be rasised 1''. When I get it done I will post a picture. Here in Canada we have short summers so when we can go work outside all other things get put on hold.

Posted on May 29, 2008 at 9:47pm — 3 Comments

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At 12:45pm on November 18, 2009, John Ellis said…
Henry, I saw you commented on Chris Franzen's color blending. He uses a eco friendly waterbased stain called EcoStain by Surecrete. There is a technique to getting the marbled effect using darker colors over the lighter color. You would use a cleaner they call SCR. It is acidbased and can remove the waterbased acid in areas leaving a great marbled look. I have done it alot on most of my project.
At 3:16pm on November 12, 2009, Johnny Roybal said…
Hey Henry,thanks.Its acid staining,I started of with a light color stain.I do the wet on wet method and it gives it flow.then I used another color in a spray bottle and worked my way around the top spraying it at an angle wet on wet.The colors were toasted almond,Terra cotta, Forrest green.
At 9:41pm on November 2, 2009, Kyle Baer said…
Thanks Henry I'll let you know how it works out.
At 9:16pm on November 2, 2009, Kyle Baer said…
Henry, How did you get the look of that vanity piece. It looks great I have a costumer interested in a similar look. I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Kyle
At 11:39am on December 14, 2008, Paul Lundy said…
I haven't done any backsplashes lately, but will be doing one at the WOC in the decorative artistry pavilion outside.
See you there?
At 11:08am on December 14, 2008, Paul Lundy said…
Henry, nice to hear from you.
It has amazed me that there are so many different mixes posted and all seem to be doable for many applications. If I was a large shop turning out work every week then I would use a super cool high-end mix. But I'm content with middle of road mixes. You should talk to Alla about cold weather mixes.
At 8:04am on September 25, 2008, Roger said…
Hey Henry thanks complement, as for our mix we make our own and in the past year we switched to GFRC, are you doing bag, your own, or GFRC mixes?
At 10:36am on September 1, 2008, Rodger Marsh said…
Henry,
the forms for the 3" bullnose are from pacific formliner. they are a super flexible foam the is reuable a few times. when you anchor off the foam your steps are 5 1/2" risers less than 1/2" 90 on the top of the foam (you'll see what i mean when they are in front of you) to anchor off the form attach to your riser either 2x6 or laminated plywood 4(3/8" layer) work great on tight corners. to anchor use 16d galvinized finish nails or smooth ones and nail through they lower part of the form and through the top part i told you to ingore. pull your stakes and leave a trowel thickness under them for ease of removing. pull the 2x6 first from the foam and then careful of the nail through the liner.
timing is cristical. too early the nosing will calapse and too late no stamp. you can also butter up a quick skin coat while everything is wet and use polymer and not water the poly is the glue that will bind the ch to the cement. put stealth fiber in your mix i use both the stealth and rigid for added strength and torch em later. if you get a cracked section complete all your detail and put the foam piece back into it over night at the fibers will grab the piece and hold it there when the concrete shrinks and retouch with color hardener.
don't waste your time or money on steigmeyer. after each use wash off and or quick touch with a pressure washer before you go home they average about 50 a 9' piece where i am. i also tried the abs too just too much silcone and back bracing so would flex. and then steig no reusing and wasted money. also you want to vibrate real quick when after you screed off the steps for your almost final pass this will push it into the bullnose and you can also hand pack it with a mag float and no bigger than a 3/8" aggr in the mix you want all the cream possible. goog luck and let me know if you have trouble practice step or two at your house and youll see what is mean
At 2:43pm on August 26, 2008, Paul Lundy said…
Hey Henry,
I'm taking a couple of minutes to catch up on some messages.
I went to CCIC and throughly enjoyed it.
You asked about the backsplashes, I would say that about 90% is integral color. I like to use powder because of the way I can either mix it strong or diluted. That's not saying that liquids don't do the same, I just found that dry works for me. Sometimes I use a water base stain like Smith's Paint just to highlight areas. I have also rubbed on some after the finish is on.
So what have you been up to? Have you done any vertical yet?
At 12:22pm on August 25, 2008, andrew NOBLE said…
Hey Henry where are you getting that pink foam that you use for voids and knockouts?
 
 

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