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Newbie questions before I get started
I'm building cast in place counters with split granite edge forms for my own kitchen, I need to keep the cost as low as possible or just wont be able to do it. i built all the cabinets out of 3/4' birch plywood so i know they are strong enough. I have questions about the mix, this is what I plan to use
1. Supplement 10 lbs of Portland cement for each 80 lbs bag of quikrete 5000
2. Use 1 scoop (2 oz.) of CounterFlo per bag of concrete, or for every 20 lbs of cement.
then I plan to acid stain or dye it to look like granite and use a 2 part self leveling epoxy to seal it.
but i see every one adding sand and aggregates to there mix. Why would I want to do this?
Why wouldn't I want to do this?
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Paul Lundy on -
Please don't seal with epoxy. It will scratch and you will hate it, then you will trash our trade!
Use ICT from Blue Concrete, or Buddy Rhodes sealer. Lastly if none of the above Lowes penetrating concrete sealer and Tre-wax.
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Permalink Reply by Rob leverich on -
will these sealers leave a super shiny surface? i do not want to trash the trade
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Permalink Reply by dave p on -
Paul correct me if I'm wrong but I didn't think ict would would work with regular bag mix. Not to mention without power blankets, moisture meter, and learning curve.
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Permalink Reply by John on -
I would be questioning your ability to trowel the surface as well? Do you do flatwork as a trade? Do you plan to grind the surface , polish and slurry? Have you worked with acid stain before? Why CIP in sted of precast? ( at least if you fok it up, you can start over. Not so easy with CIP) . what are you using for reinforcing?
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Permalink Reply by Rob leverich on
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I do not do flat work as a trade, I plan to only grind if i have to. and i want to cast in place to keep cost down not having to buy melamine boards and i don't want seams and the reinforcement is going to be ladder wire on top of cement backer board and i plan to put plastic under the backer board so the cabinets don't absorb the moister.
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Permalink Reply by Brian Farley on -
I'd ditch the epoxy and go for a penetrating and wax, like Buddy's.
Good luck.
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Permalink Reply by Paul Lundy on
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It is my pleasure to correct you Dave. :-)ICT works, it works better with the admixes of the z sytem. For Rob in his own home he should show due diligence to prevent any stains as the ICT cures. I have pieces out there from 2008 that were simple q-crete that are still perfect. But now with the mix designs and complete z system the protection is top of the line and the turn around time is faster with heat.
dave powers said:Paul correct me if I'm wrong but I didn't think ict would would work with regular bag mix. Not to mention without power blankets, moisture meter, and learning curve.
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Permalink Reply by Robert B on -
Many years ago when i first started trying to make countertops i tried the counterflo with QC 5000 and it did not do well for me. There has to be something in the QC that is not very compatible the counterflo. The fritz pak super 7 did the same thing. I was trying anything i could get my hands on back then, and not necessarily the right way but still something was very different about the batch with counterflo.
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Permalink Reply by Troy K on -
Im not in bed with anyone, not even my wife as much as I'd like... but I would also avoid using a high build self leveling epoxy. I like to use, and I know some guys will cringe, but I like to use PAP sealer. Well, I dont like to, but its what I use. I trust it, its very scratch resistant, virtually stain proof, and in 6 years, I've never got a call back because of the sealer. I'd prefer to use something like ICT, and I bought some to try out on samples and such, but just havent gotten around to it. Last time I used something like ICT, it was a lithium based sealer that you had to put on virtually the same way. And that didnt work very well for stain proofing, or resistance even.
I would also practice on some pieces, or go find guys pouring concrete and watch them to see how they trowel. Its not something you just pick up and decide to do. It takes a lot of skill to make a piece come out flat and smooth that doesnt need to be ground out.
The mix works good. I use that some mix at times for CIP. I do however, also had 10lbs of sand with the added portland.
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Permalink Reply by Gregg McCallum on -
??????????????????
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Permalink Reply by Peter Ritchie on -
Always a straight shooter Remik. Nice website; very professional.
f.it.my.name.is.remik said:Do everything that is in your plan. I think it is a very good approach that you described above. Dont let anyone disvourage yoi. All these guys have their own preferences and sometimes are in bed with some othet people selling s***.
I wouldnt listen to anyone on this forum. Even me.
You are on a path to success and beautiful granite like counters that will only make you happy and proud.
Trust me. I know what I am saying. Go to www.concrete-shop.com to some examples of my work if you need validation.
Good luck.
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Permalink Reply by Robert B on
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Well thanks for selling me out, i was just about to offer him some home made yogurt for a good price! I found a way to put flecks and food coloring in it to make it look like granicream
f.it.my.name.is.remik said:Do everything that is in your plan. I think it is a very good approach that you described above. Dont let anyone disvourage yoi. All these guys have their own preferences and sometimes are in bed with some othet people selling s***.
I wouldnt listen to anyone on this forum. Even me.
You are on a path to success and beautiful granite like counters that will only make you happy and proud.
Trust me. I know what I am saying. Go to www.concrete-shop.com to some examples of my work if you need validation.
Good luck.
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